Speaking of Las Vegas where we spent about six days in October, I began to think about how many times I has visited this city of lights and "Lost Wages." I estimated about 30 times so now could reflect on some of the changes we have seen over the last 40 years or so.Las Vegas is said to be suffering from the same economic decline affecting the rest of the world, but unless you look closely it is not always evident. I see that as a good thing. First, for the workers who still have their jobs, and second, because I want to return again and again and not find boarded hotels and casinos.
Our first forays to Nevada's Mecca were to ogle the sights and maybe play a game or two. As the years went on, we spent more time seeing the sights than actually gambling, or rather "gaming."
The newer hotels and casinos today - The Venetian, Palazzo, Wynn, Encore, Rio, Palms, and a few others exhibit the decadence that appeals to the visitor. Some are classy, some are over the top, and some are plain kitschy, but all are far beyond what any of us will have. That is the attraction: to be in a fantasy world; to watch people be happy and sad (often within minutes), and to escape our own existence if only for a few days.
We once stayed at the Dunes, the Sands, the Stardust - all gone now. We visited the Desert Inn where Howard Hughes holed up (where the Wynn stands now), and even stayed in the Flamingo bungalows where Bugsy Siegel put his high rollers. The Flamingo, in its remodeled glory still stands, but the bungalows are long gone. The Venetian stands atop the Sands property where the Rat Pack often entertained. The Bellagio lake and fountains now cover where the Dunes tower once stood.
Today, the slots do not take quarters and if you win, won't spit out pounds of dirty change, but will print you a nice ticket you can cash in. The slots still produce the sounds of the change being paid out, but even that will disappear once someone asks what that noise is.
The dealers talk to you now, and the fearsome pit bosses are now overly friendly and don't seem as likely to bust your kneecap if you misbehave. Where it was once discouraged to chat with a dealer, it is now OK, although some are still tight-lipped and look like they'd rather be anyplace else besides chatting with rubes from Wisconsin. Lucky for them the dealer tips ("tokes") are pooled or they would be paupers.
The food, which was once so cheap that it made no sense to go to McDonald's, is now quite pricey. Buffets; once the poor, broke, gamblers chance at a meal; are now upwards of $20 plus. Drinks can be found for less, but a nice martini at Caesar's is $14.
There are still bargains to be had, for sure. Room rates are reasonable if you search online, and the valet parking is always a deal even with the $2-3 tip. Hotels in most cities gouge the traveler for parking and it is (nearly) free at even the best hotels in Las Vegas.
The downtown area with Fremont Street at is center used to be the seedy part of town that was known to cater to locals and those with only a few dollars. The fifty-cent shrimp cocktail is mostly gone, but there still can be found a shrimp delight for a dollar. The table limits are lower at Binion's, the Four Queens, and even the classier Golden Nugget so gamblers don't have to risk so much on each dice toss at the crap tables. Some casinos are a little shopworn and the clientele won't grace the cover of People, but it is a friendly place, and much enhanced with the addition of the "Fremont Street Experience". The street is covered with a sort of video light canopy and each hour the show in the sky is something to behold, at least once. Queen's "We Are the Champions" and "We Will Rock You" were blasting from the 550,000 watt sound system when we were there.
Unfortunately the area between the Sahara, considered to be the northernmost hotel on the "strip" and the downtown area is still seedier and getting worse. During the day, the wedding chapels are quaint and fun to see, but at night no one should be walking this area. Yet, that is still somewhat of a attraction - to see the billions spent on (and at) the Palazzo, and just a few blocks north, tattoo parlors, street folk, and bail bondsmen.
While I once enjoyed the $1.99 breakfast, and the $4.99 T-bone in 1974, I knew that it could not continue just as the $1.00 limit blackjack and crap tables had to go as well.
Las Vegas is still that fun destination, not so much for families as they tried to cater to in the 80s, but still with that glint that says riches. Bring money, leave it there, but still have a great time. No where else does it feel so good to just break even.
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